Where food history misbehaves.
Where food history misbehaves.
On New Year’s Luck, Inherited Rituals, and the History We Didn’t Know We Were Eating Dear Readers, This evening finds me writing somewhat off-script, the candles burned lower than planned and my thoughts wandering far beyond their usual mischief. In…
Dear Readers, It is commonly agreed, or at least politely assumed, that Christmas tables are governed by goodwill. Candles are lit. Chairs are pulled close. Everyone arrives prepared to behave. This assumption has never survived sustained observation. December gatherings tend…